DOLLS SAUVAGE IN A SECRET GARDEN
Patrizia Pepe has chosen a title that is as enigmatic as it is enticing to present the new 2011 Spring Summer collection, the central themes of which are the natural world, or rather the wildness of nature: wild on the outside and wild on the inside, as the collection also conceals a very unexpected… and highly futuristic core…. yes, that’s right…. it hides a secret Hi-Tech heart!
In other words, this collection has a very ubiquitous statement to make… with nature as the leitmotif, it takes its “natural” course and takes possession of what is rightfully the realm of the natural world, breaking down barriers and bursting so unreservedly into everyday life that it takes on technology too.
As a result, the clothes are free-flowing and floaty in a watercoloured landscape of bright floral prints. Picture-pretty colour combinations are given new life with clever shading to create a naturally “lived-in” look. A newly found light and airy feel flows in rivers of silk crêpe, ruffles and frills, skimming the hip as they fall gently to the floor. Floral details stand out on tunics beside hand-embroidered petals and metal detailing on linen jersey tops. Quilted ruffles breathe life into cropped bouclè lurex, delavè-effect nylon and soft nappa jackets.
The classic trench has also been ever so slightly shaken and stirred, given a new lease of life with clever pleating, petal hemlines and gathered shoulders. Pleated jersey tops encircle the body in a flowery whorl as nature washes over, entering into the very heart of the collection, spawning a new age of classy combinations. Sequins, stones and braiding add an air of mystery and echoes of exotic leafage to knitwear. Tucks and folds caress pencil-thin skinny leggings, giving them an almost arboreal feel.
The choice of fabrics reflects this inclination, the favourites being ultra light and “natural” silks, chiffon, silk/cotton, linen and linen/cotton blends, bringing out the chic in even the most casual and unstructured of clothes. Natural is the recurrent theme in a colour palette that ranges from beige to salmon pink, light brown, camouflage green and white, with neon shades, orange red and other equally vibrant shades bringing a flash of fluorescence.
Typically at one with nature, the ethno-chic vibe has also been given an abstract and contemporary feel… A modern mosaic of avant-garde dragonflies and stylized Plexiglas butterflies flutters across dresses and tops, bringing hi-tech to contemporary clothes. Geometric tribal motifs, rhinestones and stones adorn ultra-modern, bejewelled clothes and super sexy bustiers.
The denim section of the collection is all about sophistication and style. Faded jersey gives dresses and tops a lived in look, whilst the jeans and trousers are either Skinny or Boyfriend cut. Copious amounts of sequins give the denim a truly deluxe feel in a selection of hot pants, smooth jumpsuits with opaque sequin detailing and mild military-like undertones that are as soft as they are mannish, and shirts that ooze simple sex appeal.
Any vestiges of punk in the accessories have been replaced by ethnic vibes, resulting in sophisticated Masai motifs on soft bags that are roomy, gathered and in plush nappa leather. The same larger-than-life insects appear in the accessories range, Plexiglas insects flutter on neon sequinned natural fabric flowers and multi-coloured resin ones on colourful stripy fabrics, fringe-embellished keffiyehs with stitch-detail and coloured turbans. Belts are high-waisted, studded or woven. Sandals are ultra-flat, fully embracing the idea of absolute liberty of movement.
Style, technology & innovation continue to shape the choice of fabrics and the use of “natural” fibres, which coalesce to create an all-new, high-energy collection for ageless women who like the get-noticed, feel-good factor of being natural and being themselves.